Paths of armies and hermits

Recommendations:

The Llisera trail is geologically fascinating. The Montsant massif is a towering presence. There are some slightly aerial sections. This is not a dangerous path, but you have to take care, especially if you are with children. You are recommended to avoid the hottest times of day in summer.

Set out from Albarca towards the Montsant [1] until you reach the pass of Coll dels Hostalets. [2] The place name comes from the inns that used to stand beside the old road from Reus to Lleida, though now all that remains are some ruins. Turn left and follow the old route towards Cornudella. This section is also known as the Camí de la Llisera. [3] The path runs level between rocks that have fallen from the cliffs, over coloured loams. Follow the red and white marks of the GR 174 long-distance footpath to get to a wide pass with signposting. [4] The Camí de la Llisera carries on running level to the chapel of Sant Joan del Codolar. Turn off to the left, downhill, following the old road, this section of which is also signposted as the Camí dels Cartoixans with the yellow markings of the Priorat county path network. [5] This section of track ends in a wider one at the spot known as the Racó del Carro. [6] Follow this downhill and very soon you come to a fork. Follow the yellow marks to the right along a small path beside a retaining wall that gets narrower. [7] Ignore turnoffs to different properties and then take the cemented path leading to the chapel. [8] You soon come to the shrine of Sant Joan Petit. Carry on along the cemented track and soon afterwards take a narrow path leading up to the right at a bend, which cuts out a section of the cemented track for vehicles. [9] To return to Albarca from the chapel of Sant Joan del Codolar, take the Camí de la Llisera from behind the house, where there is also a spring. [10] Pass beside a small picnic area and follow the path back to the pass on the old road and then that of Els Hostalets.